![]() There is a electronic air cleaner and power humidifier and a/c. Unit is a Rheem RGRA-09EZANJ 90 plus upflow Classic about 15 years old since our home was new. I'm old and do not hear well so I don't know if the spark "cracks" or not I'd say the spark when tested, is about the same as on our gas range burners. ![]() The present gap for the spark to jump is about 1/8". I ran a separate ground wire from the main gas supply pipe to the ignitor mount to assure (?) a good ground. Is there a possibility the furnace control board is not providing a strong enough spark? Could the spark gap on the ignitor (brand new) be too large/small? The gas outlets from the manifold pipe seem all clear and I vacuumned the burners. ![]() I hesitate to call an expert as the problem is intermittent. The frequency of not lighting seems to be increasing. I've checked all the obvious items like the flame sensor and ignitor device itself and all the safety air switches and condenser switch clogged filter and exhaust. After not lighting on a cold night I resort to the BBQ lighter when I hear the gas valve click in it's sequence and the main burner lights every time. However, about one time out of ten when the thermostat calls for heat the furnace will try to ignite but fail and must be reset, After reset the furnace will ignite about one out of three time. I can always (so far) light the the gas burner with a BBQ lighter when the gas valve clicks open. When installed outside of the furnace for testing it sparks when it should when the gas valves clicks open. The burners are quite easy to remove and reinstall.I seem to have a working spark ignitor although I can not see it when installed. We recommend only using a venturi tube cleaner to clean these out. Occasionally, insects can crawl inside the venturi tube of the burners and block the flow of fuel into the burner tube itself. If there is no spark on all burners, the problem may be a malfunction of the ignition unit, and it is often the capacitor that gives the spark when the button. A spark without ignition can also mean there is a problem within the burners. If you’re getting a spark but no ignition check to see if the electrodes are misaligned, if they aren’t positioned above, or beside the burner properly, they will not ignite with the fuel. Now for the unfun and most confusing method. The fix for this is as simple as drying the wet components or opening a beer and waiting it out. Additionally, if you’re not getting any spark, the issue could be humidity or a wet barbecue. Luckily, barbecue ignitors are made to be easy to remove and install, so if any wires are damaged it is quite easy to replace them. Since we’ve already taken some pieces out of the barbecue in diagnosing the earlier components, everything should be visible. If any are loose or look like they are damaged, swap them out. So, starting at the ignitor or ignitor button, to the module (if applicable), to the electrode, follow those wires. Still no click? There’s one more place to check, and this involves following the chain of command. With that being said, I think you would have to engage in quite a lot of, and quite a sudden amount of, mechanical excitation to ignite your barbecue with your bones, so we’ll file that one under “fun facts” for now. When mechanical stress or pressure (like pushing the button of your barbecue ignitor) is applied to that material, an electrical spark is generated, this is called piezoelectricity and it is also produced within the bones of our bodies when we apply mechanical stress or excitation to our bodies.
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